Open-Access Hemp Fiber & Textile Research: Retting, Degumming, Spinning, Dyeing, QA & LCA & Textiles
Looking for credible, free-to-read science on hemp fiber and textiles?
This curated library brings together open-access, peer-reviewed articles on retting, degumming, spinning, dyeing, quality measurement, and sustainability. Perfect for brands, mills, product developers, and researchers who want a direct path to the evidence.
All links verified open-access as of September 2025.
Contents
1) Big-Picture Reviews & Overviews
2) Retting & Microbiology
3) Degumming & Cottonization
4) Spinning, Blends & Yarn Engineering
5) Dyeing, Finishing & Functionality
6) Quality Measurement & Surface Science
7) LCA, Sustainability & Carbon
Big-Picture Reviews & Overviews
Why it matters: Start here to understand the entire field—from agronomy and fiber extraction to textile routes and end uses.
Papers (open access):
Hemp Fibre Properties & Processing (2022) — authoritative textile-focused review.
Hemp: From Field to Fiber—A Review (2024) — end-to-end supply-chain overview.
Retting of Bast Fiber Crops Like Hemp & Flax—A Review (2024) — modern retting science in context.
Era of Bast Fibers-Based Polymer Composites (2024) — bast fibers landscape with hemp throughout.
Why it matters: Retting is where quality is won or lost. The microbiome and enzymes drive pectin breakdown and fiber liberation.
Retting & Microbiology
Papers (open access):
Why it matters: Degumming removes pectins, hemicellulose, and residual lignin to unlock spinnable, cotton-system-compatible hemp.
Degumming & Cottonization
Papers (open access):
Green Degumming of Hemp (ACS Omega, 2021) — biochemical route with lower temperature/impact.
One-Step Alkaline–Hydrogen Peroxide Degumming (BioResources, 2023) — low-temp process optimization.
Clarifying Bio-Degumming Enzymes (Polymers, 2024) — which pectinases matter; practical guidance.
Ultrasonic Degumming for Hemp (CC BY) — classic sonic-assisted pathway; parameters & principles.
Deep-Eutectic Solvent / Microwave Degumming (2022) — solvent innovation direction.
Green Degumming via Ternary DES (2025, ACS) — next-gen chemistry; OA.
Spinning, Blends & Yarn Engineering
Why it matters: Once cottonized, hemp can run on ring, rotor, and vortex lines—blending with cotton, wool, nylon, or recycled inputs.
Papers (open access):
Why it matters: Surface chemistry is different from cotton; pretreatments (plasma, enzymatic) and bio-based finishes can unlock color/comfort/performance.
Dyeing, Finishing & Functionality
Papers (open access):
Natural Dyeing of Hemp/Cotton with Madder & Calendula (2022) — good fastness, practical recipes.
Ultrasonic Natural Dyeing with Gardenia (2024) — color + inherent antibacterial effect.
UV-Protective & Antibacterial Hemp via AgNPs (2025) — UPF 50+ and >90% reduction after 30 washes.
Antibacterial Hemp by Covalent Grafting (2021, PMC) — quaternary ammonium modification pathway.
Protic Ionic-Liquid FR on Alkalized Hemp (2023) — FR chemistry for green composites/fabrics.
Dyeability + Antibacterial Finish with Neem (2018) — dual-function natural extract approach.
Inkjet Printing Pretreatment (2023) — urea-free CMG thickener for printability on hemp.
Quality Measurement & Surface Science
Why it matters: Consistent yarn/fabric needs standardized fiber metrics (length, fineness, SFE), robust single-fiber mechanics, and optical tools.
Papers (open access):
Brief Review of Hemp Fiber Length Measurement (2024) — methods & sample prep pitfalls.
Characterization of Elementary Hemp Fiber & Fabric (2023) — modern physical/mechanical methods.
Mechanical Properties vs Agronomy & Extraction (2023) — sowing density, N-rate, extraction effects.
Mechanical Properties: Diameter-strength Modeling (2024) — Weibull/Griffith predictions.
Surface Free Energy vs Chemical Composition (2024) — SFE mapping for flax/hemp.
Optical Fiber Diameter Analyzer for Hemp (2025) — new tool proposal for diameter metrics.
AFM Nanomechanics of Hemp Fibers (2025) — nanoscale modulus & morphology.
Terahertz Spectroscopy for Fiber Identification (2025) — rapid THz + ML identification.
Single-Fiber Tensile Testing Practices (2024) — compliance & reliability considerations.
LCA, Sustainability & Carbon
Why it matters: Claims need system boundaries, allocation choices, and biogenic carbon accounting that withstand scrutiny.
Papers (open access):
Comparative LCA of Textile Fibers: Hemp vs Cotton (2025) — farm → harvest → fiber impacts.
Carbon Neutrality Potential of Hemp Textile Products (2023) — biogenic storage & lifetime scenarios.
Environmental Assessment of Woven Hemp Fiber Reinforced Products (2023) — process stage hotspots.
Environmental Impact of Hemp Cultivation (2024) — cultivation phase scenarios & sensitivity.
USDA National Hemp Report (2025) — production context & volumes for LCA inventories.
Historical LCA of Field-Grown Fiber Hemp (2004, classic) — early benchmark values and methods.
Comparative LCA: Bacterial vs Thermochemical Retting (2024) — adds process-specific impacts.
Carbon Footprint Embodied in Global Fiber Trades (2025) — trade-adjusted view including hemp.
Hemp Industry Briefing (Textile Exchange, 2023) — carbon accounting rules.
Notes on Selection & Recency
Prioritization: We front-loaded 2023–2025 studies where methods are evolving quickly (enzymatic/bio-degumming, cottonization, spinning, LCA), and kept a few classic papers where they’re still the standard reference.
Access: Every item above links to an open-access publisher page or a legitimate repository (PMC, institutional, or author OA). When a publisher page is paywalled but an OA repository version exists, we point to the OA version.
Caveats: A handful of OA journals (incl. MDPI) publish fast; still peer-reviewed, but we encourage cross-checking claims with multiple sources.
All research links verified open-access (OA) as of September 2025. If you notice a link that has moved or become restricted, please let us know so we can update it.