Beyond Polyester and Cotton: Why It’s Time for Traceable Bast Fibers
Functional Fabric Fair and Texworld NYC Reveal the Urgent Opportunity for Hemp, Flax, and More
Last month, our team walked the show floors of Functional Fabric Fair and Texworld NYC — two of the most influential sourcing events in the textile industry. While we were energized by the scale of innovation on display, one thing stood out immediately:
Natural fibers — especially bast fibers — were vastly underrepresented.
Synthetics dominated. And among natural materials, the conversation overwhelmingly circled back to cotton. Yet, for brands and mills looking for truly regenerative, low-impact alternatives that go beyond the cotton-versus-polyester binary, bast fibers like hemp, flax, ramie, and sisal represent a massive, largely untapped opportunity.
A Growing Gap in the Sustainability Conversation
More than ever, apparel and textile companies are facing pressure to meet climate goals, comply with incoming regulations (like the EU CSDDD and ESPR), and provide traceability for all materials, not just cotton. Yet, at events like Texworld and Functional Fabric Fair, the lack of verified, scalable bast fiber options was clear.
It’s not interest that is missing. It is infrastructure, certification, and credible claims that make it easier for brands to adopt and trust bast fibers — especially hemp — as part of their long-term sourcing strategy.
That’s Where Responsible Bast Comes In
As the global standard owner of the Responsible Hemp Standard (RHS), INCCert has spent the last two years building a chain-of-custody certification system tailored specifically for industrial hemp. But we’ve always known hemp is part of a broader category of regenerative, bast-based natural fibers that need credible support and alignment.
That’s why, in 2026, we will launch the Responsible Bast Standard (RBS) — an expanded scope certification that includes:
Hemp
Flax (linen)
Ramie
Sisal
These fibers are powerful tools for a more circular, resilient fashion future — but only if their value chains are transparent, traceable, and responsibly managed from farm to final product.
Why the RBS Is Different
Most certifications focus only on what can’t be used (pesticides, inputs, synthetics). RBS takes a different approach. It recognizes and rewards:
Verified traceability through transaction certificates (TCs)
Responsible farming and labor practices
Clean, compliant processing (retting, scouring, bleaching, spinning)
Alignment with brand-level ESG and due diligence requirements
Support for emerging supply chains in North America, Europe, and Latin America
A Call for Brand Engagement
If you’re a sourcing or sustainability leader exploring low-impact fibers, it’s time to look upstream — beyond cotton, and beyond the usual suppliers.
Bast fibers are ready. What’s missing is brand commitment. The growth of these supply chains depends on demand signals that reward farmers, processors, and mills for doing the right thing.
By participating in RHS (and soon the Responsible Bast Standard), your brand helps accelerate the transition to a more diversified, regenerative material portfolio, with the documentation to back it up.
Ready to Go Beyond the Fiber Status Quo?
We’re here to help you source better, prove it, and build consumer trust.
To learn more about becoming an RHS-certified supplier or sourcing from certified producers, and stay tuned as we roll out the Responsible Bast Standard, sign up below.